By: Nana Karikari, Senior Global Affairs Correspondent
Following the recent conferral of Geographical Indication (GI) protection on Kente, Ghana has achieved a powerful declaration of cultural sovereignty. This legal move positions Kente alongside high-value global products like French Champagne, forcing the multi-trillion-dollar fashion industry into a necessary reckoning. The core question—Can legal recognition of Ghana’s heritage fundamentally reshape how global brands use traditional African designs?—is now moving from theory to implementation.
The Threads of History and Symbolism
Kente, originating in the 17th century, is central to Ghana’s Asante and Ewe people. For the Asante, the royal cloth (nwentoma) was reserved for kings (Asantehene), symbolizing wisdom, status, and authority. The Ewe introduced the sophisticated horizontal loom weaving technique. Kente patterns embody Adinkra symbols, conveying deep philosophical meanings—such as the Fatia Fata Nkrumah (Fathia deserves Nkrumah) or Adwinasa (All motifs are used)—making the fabric a vital national symbol.
Since Ghana’s independence in 1957, Prime Minister Kwame Nkrumah and subsequent leaders have worn Kente globally, signifying Pan-African identity. In the U.S., the cloth has become a symbol of Black empowerment.
UNESCO to WIPO: Securing Value
Ghana’s legal strategy follows two pivotal achievements. In December 2024, traditional Kente weaving was inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List, celebrating its cultural continuity.
Building on this momentum, the Kente GI was officially launched on September 30, 2025, during a high-level ceremony at the La-Palm Royal Beach Hotel in Accra. This status, developed with support from the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO), adds legal and commercial enforcement power. This designation ensures only Ghanaian-woven cloth is deemed authentic, directly shielding Kente against uncompensated cultural appropriation. Kente Ambassador Amma Prempeh called it a “historic and transformative milestone,” emphasizing, “This is more than a legal stamp – it is a powerful declaration to the world that Kente is not just a fabric, but a living heritage.”
For the weavers who have spent decades competing with cheap, factory-printed imitations, the move is a long-awaited shield. “For too long, we watched machines far away copy our sacred patterns and sell them for pennies,” says Kwabena Osei-Tutu, a master weaver in Bonwire. “Now, when I weave a strip of Adwinasa, I am not just making a cloth; I am producing a certified Ghanaian treasure. This law says our hands and our history have a value that a printer cannot replicate.”
The Architecture of Protection: Standards and Cooperation
The success of this GI is rooted in the “Book of Specifications,” a rigorous legal document developed by the Registrar General’s Department (Industrial Property Office) in collaboration with the Swiss-Ghana Intellectual Property (SGIP) Project. This document codifies the exact thread counts, loom types, and traditional methods that qualify a fabric as “Authentic Kente.”
This protection extends across key weaving hubs, including Bonwire and Adanwomase in the Ashanti Region, and Agotime Kpetoe, Agbozume, and Tafi Atome in the Volta Region. By defining these geographic boundaries, Ghana has created a “collective mark” that belongs to the weavers themselves, rather than a single corporation.
The view from the Diaspora
The impact is felt far beyond Ghana’s borders, particularly in hubs like London’s Brixton and Peckham, where Kente is a staple of weddings and graduations. “Our customers want to know they are supporting the source,” says Abena Konadu Yiadom, who has sold traditional textiles in London for over 15 years. “Before, it was hard to prove what was handwoven in the Volta Region versus what was printed in a factory. With the new QR codes and GI status, I can tell a bride: ‘This is the soul of Ghana.’ It changes the conversation from price to pride.”
Protection Through Traceability and Equity
Enforcement relies on a traceability system: each authentic piece will feature a QR code. This technology channels profits back to the source communities, affirming that Ghanaian heritage belongs to its people. As one official noted, “This protection gives economic power to the very communities that created Kente… It’s not just about heritage, it’s about equity.”
Lessons and Challenges Ahead
Ghana’s move places Kente in the same legal league as internationally protected goods like Darjeeling tea, which offers a critical enforcement blueprint. The primary lesson is that GI registration is just the beginning; Ghana must aggressively defend the name and weaving technique. A clear licensing system is vital for respectful international collaboration, setting a major precedent for protecting Traditional Cultural Expressions (TCEs) in fashion.
Domestically, Ghana must resolve internal quality and brand management issues. The GI depends on stringent quality control standards to maintain the brand’s premium value, making the management of this collective mark an ongoing administrative challenge.
Economic Impact and Blueprint for Africa
The GI protection is fundamentally an economic strategy. Authorities project the GI could increase certified communities’ collective annual revenue by over 40% within three years. For the global African diaspora, this guarantees the authenticity of their
cultural connection. As one designer argued, “Creativity with compensation is not stifling; it’s just business, the way it should have been all along.”
Ghana’s initiative provides an African blueprint. It demonstrates that legally securing cultural patrimony can drive economic development. This success inspires nations debating protection for their own crafts, such as Nigeria’s Aso-Oke. The Kente GI is a strategic display of soft power, showing cultural assets can become robust engines for sustainable community growth.
Strategy for sustained sovereignty
Ghana’s immediate task is moving from legal mandate to market reality. The nation’s enforcement strategy focuses on three key areas:
● Digital Public Registry: Establish a registry of certified Kente weavers for quick verification by global buyers.
● Target E-Commerce Platforms: Work with international entities like Amazon and eBay to implement automatic takedown protocols for uncertified Kente listings.
● Capacity Building: Train customs officials and legal teams in key export markets to seize counterfeit Kente, leveraging the QR code system as a border defense tool.
The Kente Geographical Indication is more than just a legal shield. It represents a profound act of cultural self-determination. This designation ensures the fabric’s immense value returns directly to its source communities. Crucially, it challenges the global fashion system to meet a new ethical standard.
