By: Gloria Anderson
Nestled in the lush highlands of Kiambu County, Kenya, the Kanguru Coffee Estate stands as a living symbol of resilience, tradition, and innovation. Established in 1974, the 350-acre farm has weathered decades of shifting economic fortunes, unpredictable rainfall, and evolving market demands. Today, it is under the stewardship of Mr. Gitau Karanja, a third-generation coffee farmer whose dedication and forward-thinking approach are redefining modern coffee cultivation in East Africa.
Two hundred acres of the estate are dedicated solely to coffee. It produces two major varieties, SL28 and Ruiru 11 and currently yields about 70,000 kilograms of coffee each year. Annual output has been growing steadily, with an additional 10,000 to 20,000 kilogrammes produced yearly, thanks to improved agronomic practices and consistent investment in soil fertility, irrigation, and quality control. As part of the IFAJ World Congress oF Agricultural Journalists, participants visited the Karanja Coffee farm. interacting with Gloria Anderson,Mr. Gitau Karanja,shared how he started work on the coffee farm as a fram hand to become a supervisor and finally rising to the managerial position
“I was educated through coffee money,” Mr. Karanja said, reflecting on his family’s legacy. “I grew up on this farm and understood the value of what my grandparents started. Once you begin farming, it becomes a passion it’s a bug that bites you, and you can’t imagine doing anything else.”
Before taking over as General Manager in 2014, Karanja worked as an interior designer, but the pull of the farm proved irresistible. His decision to return was driven not only by nostalgia but also by a deep conviction that agriculture when done with structure and integrity can be profitable. “Farming is not something you do because you failed elsewhere,” he said. “If you farm properly, you’ll make money. But there are no shortcuts; you must commit to it year after year with discipline and patience.”
The estate employs 35 permanent workers, including supervisors and management staff, but during peak harvest seasons, that number swells to nearly 200, drawn mainly from surrounding communities. Kanguru Coffee exports to South Africa, the United States, Belgium, and Germany, and is now targeting emerging markets in South Korea and Asia.
Karanja’s farming philosophy combines traditional wisdom with modern agricultural science. From meticulous seed selection to grafting and foliar feeding, every stage of production is guided by precision and care. Coffee seeds, he explained, are first planted in a mixture of sand and red soil to ensure strong root growth before being transplanted and grafted. “The Ruiru 11 variety is more drought and disease-resistant, while the SL28 gives a richer cup profile,” he explained. “My goal is to strike a balance between quality and resilience because the future of coffee depends on both.”
Climate change, however, poses a significant challenge. Karanja said its effects are increasingly visible, forcing farmers to rethink their practices. “Every year, we study weather patterns and plan accordingly,” he noted. “When we expect drought, we prepare our irrigation systems early. Coffee needs a lot of water, especially after flowering. There’s a 35-day dormancy period, and if you don’t provide enough water then, the cherries will not expand.”
He also relies on foliar sprays that supply nitrogen and phosphorus to strengthen trees and prevent nutrient deficiencies. “When coffee leaves start turning yellow, that’s the tree’s way of saying, ‘I need help,’” he said. “A good farmer listens to those signs.”
Though the farm has experimented with organic practices, Karanja admitted that complete organic conversion remains difficult, particularly for the SL28 variety. “With coffee, you can’t go 100% organic,” he explained. “However, we are experimenting with a small block of Ruiru 11 under organic management. If successful, it will become our first certified organic section by next year. Farming is trial and error; you must keep learning.”
Beyond cultivation, Karanja sees the farm as a family institution and a model of governance. The estate operates under a structured family management system, with committees representing each family branch. “We don’t say ‘I own’; we say ‘we own,’” he said. “It keeps me accountable and ensures decisions are made collectively.”
However, family membership alone does not guarantee employment on the estate. “Just because you’re family doesn’t mean you automatically work here,” he stated firmly. “We look at what value each person brings. If your skills lie elsewhere, we’ll support you there, but the farm must remain professional.”
He also shared insights into the social value of farming. “When I don’t have enough funds to harvest my produce, I don’t just sit back and complain,” he said. “I strategise. I ensure the trees get the nutrients they need nitrogen, phosphorus, and enough water. The trees speak to you. They show when they are strong or weak. A good farmer must pay attention.”
On the broader issue of youth disengagement from agriculture, Mr. Karanja believes mindset and mentorship are key. “Many young people think farming is for those who failed in life,” he said. “But that’s wrong. Farming is a business. Populations are increasing globally, and coffee consumption is rising. If we farm properly, we will make money and create jobs.”
He urged African governments, including Ghana’s, to invest more in farmer engagement and value addition. “The best help governments can give us is dialogue,” he stressed. “Sit with farmers. Listen to us. We know the potential of this crop and how to make it profitable.”
For Karanja, farming is not just a livelihood; it is a calling grounded in consistency and integrity. “If you are consistent, your costs come down, your yields improve, and your life becomes stable,” he said with a reflective smile. “That’s what I’ve learned from my parents and grandparents and that’s what keeps me here.”
As the sun sets over the rolling green fields of Kiambu, the Kanguru Coffee Estate stands as more than just a farm. It is a symbol of generational perseverance and proof that with vision, hard work, and innovation, Africa’s coffee story can continue to thrive for decades to come. So next time you have a cup of coffee, know that every cup of Kenyan coffee lies not just in its richer aroma and taste, but a heritage of love, labour, and unyielding resilience.
Gloria Anderson was sponsored by OFAB, a project of the AATF to attend the IFAJ World Congress of Agricultural Journalists in Nairobi, Kenya.
